Sewing seamless cloths? Sounds unbelievable, right? But the fact is sleeves and necklines need traditional stitching with thread and needle. However, the Italian knitting technology produces gorgeous designs that features fashion with basic function. The soft micro fibres utilized in these cloths need particular threads, and enhanced sewing technology for the elasticity.
The seamless clothing has transformed the thorough worldwide production process. This technology can directly yield done products, and lessens traditional process of the production. This leads to salvage of production costs up to 40 percent compared to the traditional knitting. The seamless knits are in tubular shape, which is laid-in elastic yarns, located in the welt bands and prepared in the compressed areas.
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Circular knitting machines were mostly used by underwear makers since the starting of the circular knitting technology in early 19th century. But the manufacturers in Italy merged the reciprocation technology for tips and heels of socks with intarsia for swimwear, underwear and outerwear during 80s. The motor manufacturing company, Santoni in Brescia is currently prominent the market; although other associates like Sangiacomo, Italy and Merz, Germany are also paramount players in similar knitting motor technologies.
Within just three years, production of seamless underwear assortment reached nine percent of the total global production in this segment in year 2001, comparing two percent reached in the year 1998, with climb of 18 percent in 2003. In 2007, underwear industrial segment is likely to reach 35 percent, Santoni reports.
In context to the educational and training, the Santoni Group has been conducting courses at The Machina Fashion and build Institute, based in Brescia. The courses are focused on software oriented designs, and on the motor developments. Santoni training centre has emerged as a work place for innovations and build prototypes, which are checked by consumers and stylists, and will be artificial and distributed in the open market.
Santoni tried its hands on making seamless pants and bras, however, the results were not so definite because the diameter of the machines permits only small sizes. Although, this resulted many tantalizing out-comes like frills, fringes and designs.
Threads
Because the main products like underwear, outerwear and swimwear are highly elastic, fine to very fine fabric, made of micro-fibres, required to be very extensible and soft.
All major sewing thread makers have advanced appropriate products.
Alterfil has advanced a 100 percent polyester texturized yarn "Alterfil T", for needle and looper. The combination of Alterfil T and Alterfil B in the needle and looper is recommended.
The Coats has introduced Coats Eloflex, produced from Polybutylene terephthalate (P.B.T.). It is designed for elastic knitted fabrics, featuring best firmness and elasticity. This could be utilized for both under thread and needle.
Gotermann, Germany has introduced an eye-catching seam with a glowing metallic effect. The in-depth testing has depicted that using a 2 or 3 needle over-sew stitch, a combination of the micro fibre thread 'Piuma' and the metal threads, Gotermann W 331, rolls out a perfect result.
It is skin-friendly, without resulting any irritation. The 127 ready Piuma colors and 12 W 331 colors (in some cases multi-colored) yield a wide-range of color permutation.
Amann, Germany advanced new innovative elastic sewing thread, "saba Flex". It is made from 100 percent Ptt continuous thread, ready in 2 variants, 80tex and 120tex for all kinds of elastic fabrics.
Reutex, Germany offers new elastic micro fibre thread for needle and looper, 'Softex 120'.
Joining Options
Welding, bonding, and heat sealing are other options then traditional sewing method. However, these options have their restrictions over elasticity. Framis Italia, based in ltaly, is customary for its welding technology, "NoSo" that is based on bonding. It is bonding of two fabrics together. The bonding tape is implemented together with hot-air welding. Framis has recently launched newest transported motor Ei Nino for hot-air welding.
Swiss manufacturer, Schips has introduced ultrasonic machines. The first motor is Hs C51 Whe-F8, which is for hemming, second is the Hs C52Bco, which continuously assembles two fabrics with a bonding tape, and third is Hs C51 Wfo that welds folded elastic to issue garments.
Sewing Machines
Sewing motor makers did not overwhelmed on new technologies, as anticipated. However, few motor makers have taken initiatives to heighten the technologies. The initiatives towards user-friendliness and flexibility are remarkable.
. Amf Reece, based in Czech Republic, introduced a chain stitch buttonhole lingerie tucker machine, 5-4000 Lt, to heighten finishing process of the flat seams and flat lock seams. The surplus flat lock seam is absorbed straight through the sensor control. The flat seam is cut and fully sewn on, and then cut-off flat lock chain is thrown into the squander.
. The Italian sewing motor maker, Cf has introduced Rimoldi, which is well known for seamless sewing solutions. Its conception consists of seven resourceful machines. The stock assortment includes, over lock motor Vega Ii with 1 or 2 needles, Fenix with 2 or 3 needles and its smaller imitation Mizar and Libra are particularly advanced for lingerie. Over lock motor Lyra is a 1 and 2 needle a new uncostly sewing machine. Gemini, a station with two self-governing, opposite heads, which coordinates to execute parallel binding, lace and elastic functions on both legs of briefs or panties.
. Yamato from Japan launched the Vgs motor with extra higher transportation, affirmative feeding of the thread for needles and changing time of looper movements. This may result in raising the length of threads in the seam, making high elasticity. In case of seaming a T-shirt, the Utl will make the stitches automatically denser at the end of the sewing process and locks the seam.
. Oorkopp from Germany and Shanggong from China introduced three new machines for knitting, two high speed lock-stitch (Gc8900-1/A/H and Gc8900¬4-50) and the high speed over-lock motor Sg700/704/714/716. The other has a degree of discrepancy in feeding with micro alteration according to the kind of fabric sewn
. Union Special, Germany, introduced many machines for seamless garments; among these a unique flat seaming motor with 4 needles thread feed off the arm with top cover thread for overlapped joining processes. The photocell controls the thread-chain-cutter at the back of the foot-presser.
. Pegasus, Japan, introduced new special motor to bind tape over seamless garments, W562-020Bx232/ Ft141/Md641/Y. It is 2-needle flatbed, interlock stitching machine. Its top-cover thread has a fabric edge trimmer, with elastic lace feeder, retention stepping motor driven metering device and automatic tape/thread cutter.
. Schips introduced a blend of two machines, Hs C3G/B to attach bindings simultaneously form right to left leg.
Conclusion
Seamless products have a share in fashion and functional garment market, and it is not bounded to only underwear segment. The new evolution is emerging into outerwear stock assortments.
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